The best waterfalls in Badung Regency

Nungnung Waterfall, Bali: 500 Steps and the Best Sweat I've Had on Holiday

Six in the morning, and I'm on the back of a scooter with a photographer friend who lives in Bali, heading out of Ubud toward Nungnung. An hour later my backside has basically gone numb. Nobody warns you how long an hour on a scooter actually feels.

Then the car park, and then the real work starts. Five hundred-odd steps straight down into the gorge. We were aiming to be at the bottom before eight, and we just about made it.