The best waterfalls in Aosta Valley

We set off from Genova early, before it was properly light, and by the time we hit the mountains it was snowing hard enough that the wipers couldn't quite keep up. That's the drive to Cogne in winter, really — you leave the coast behind and within a couple of hours you're somewhere else entirely, climbing through switchbacks with everything turning white around you.

Cogne itself is small. A church, a cluster of hotels, a few shops that all seem to sell the same wool socks. We didn't linger there on the way in, because Lillaz was the plan, a few kilometres further up the valley, and that's where the ice actually is.

The Drive In, and Why It's Slower Than the Map Says