Yangpidong Waterfall

Yangpidong Waterfall (羊皮洞瀑布) is a free, undeveloped waterfall in Qingzhen, about 70 km from Guiyang in China's Guizhou province. It drops roughly 40 metres out of a cave in a limestone cliff. The walk down to it is steep and muddy, and takes 30 to 50 minutes each way. I went four years ago while I was travelling around Guiyang. A video of the falls had come up online and I wanted to see it for myself. This post covers what the trip was like, how the two routes work, and what I would tell a friend before they went. Where Yangpidong Waterfall Is The falls are in Muke village, in Anliu town, which belongs to Qingzhen, a county-level city under Guiyang. On a map it looks close to the city. The drive from Guiyang usually takes somewhere between an hour and a half and two hours, and the last stretch is narrow country road. The water comes from an underground river that runs out of a cave in the cliff face and drops straight down. People online call it the best underground waterfall in Guizhou. That's more of a nickname than an official title, but I can see why it stuck. Why I Went I was in Guiyang on a trip when the video came up. It showed a big waterfall coming out of a cave, with no fences and hardly anyone around, and it looked properly wild. I decided to go and see it. I didn't have much hiking experience back then. That matters for what came next, because the trail is not a tourist path, and I found that out on the way down. The Walk Down to the Falls You leave the car at the parking area and take a dirt track downhill. Coloured ribbons are tied to trees along the way, and they are the only signs there are. The path goes through forest, then through a cave section, then out to the viewing spot below the falls. One way took me somewhere in the 30 to 50 minute range, and most of it is downhill. It was muddy. In a few places I was using my hands as much as my feet, climbing down over wet rock and roots. By the end I thought of it as an outdoor trekking route with a waterfall at the finish, not a walk to a lookout. Partway down I started to hear the falls. It was a low roar coming through the trees, a long time before I could see any water. It got louder as I went, which helped, because I was tired by then. There weren't many other people. The ones I saw were mostly locals, plus photographers and hikers from other places, and they had mostly come on their own rather than with tour groups. At the Bottom The river comes out of the cave in the cliff and falls about 40 metres into a deep pool. The mist reaches you well before you're close, and my clothes were wet almost straight away. There is no boardwalk here, no railing and no staff. It's rock, water, moss and mud. I had been tired and muddy for most of the walk, and that feeling went as soon as I heard the falls up close. How the Falls Change With the Season The amount of water changes a lot through the year. In the wet season the flow is big and heavy, a wide white column coming off the cliff. In the dry season it gets thinner and looks more like a curtain, and you can see the moss covering the rock wall around it. The catch is that the wet season is also when the path is at its worst. If you want the bigger version of the falls, you have to pick a dry spell during it, and I explain why in the safety notes below. Four Years Later Yangpidong hasn't changed much in the four years since I went. There is still no ticket office, no railings and no proper path. The one difference I know of is that outdoor clubs now bring organised groups out to hike it, so you might share the trail with a crowd, which wasn't the case when I went. If you're in Guiyang with a free day and decent shoes, it's a good day out. Two Ways to Get to Yangpidong Waterfall There are two routes, and they are quite different. The hiking route is the one I did. Put the Yangpidong Waterfall car park into your map app (in Chinese, 羊皮洞瀑布停车场). From there it's the dirt track downhill, the ribbon markers, the cave section and then the viewing spot. Allow 30 to 50 minutes going down and two to three hours for the whole round trip, because the way back is uphill and slower. The boat route is the easier one, though I haven't done it, so this is what I've been told and read rather than something I've tested. You navigate to Shatian Wharf (沙田码头) and take a boat, with a return ticket reported at 90 to 100 yuan. The ride is about 25 minutes, followed by a walk of around 10 minutes to the falls. The stretch of river is nicknamed the "little three gorges". Check prices and running times locally, because I couldn't confirm a timetable. Safety Notes Before You Go This is a wild place and I'd treat it that way. There are no railings, no staff and nobody to call if something goes wrong. If you have no hiking experience, or you're thinking of bringing young children, think carefully. Some sections are hard going. I was a beginner and I got through it, but I was climbing with my hands on parts of the trail. Don't go when it's raining, or within about three days after rain. The dirt path gets very slippery and there is a risk of landslides. Timing matters too. I wouldn't head down after 2 pm, because the walk back up is slow and you don't want to be on that path in the dark. I've also heard that the village now controls the road, letting cars out but not in after 2 pm, though I haven't tested that myself. Once you're at the falls, stay back from cliff edges. The cave is a separate matter. The path goes through one section, but going deeper into the cave is a bad idea, because there's no lighting inside and the underground river is dangerous. Go with other people and don't do it alone. What to Wear and Pack Shoes are the main thing. Wear non-slip hiking shoes or water shoes. Flat soles, canvas shoes and sandals are a bad idea, since the ground here is wet all year. Bring quick-dry clothes and a full change of clothes, because you will get soaked at the falls. A rain jacket is more use than an umbrella. A trekking pole helps on the muddy slope, both for balance and for saving your legs on the climb back. A waterproof backpack, a waterproof pouch for your phone and a towel are also worth having. Take enough drinking water and some energy food. I've read that some stretches of the path have places to buy supplies, but I wouldn't count on it. Take your rubbish out with you. Nobody maintains the site, so whatever you drop stays there. Practical Details Location: Muke village, Anliu town, Qingzhen, Guiyang, Guizhou, China Distance from Guiyang: about 70 km, 1.5 to 2 hours by car Size: about 40 m high and 20 to 30 m wide Entry: no ticket Parking: villagers charge a small fee, reported at about 15 yuan per car Hiking route: 30 to 50 minutes each way, 2 to 3 hours round trip Boat route: from Shatian Wharf, about 90 to 100 yuan return (reported), 25 minutes by boat plus a 10 minute walk Avoid: rain and the three days after it, and heading in after 2 pm Footwear: non-slip only Quick Answers Is Yangpidong Waterfall free? Yes. There is no entry ticket for the walking route. Villagers charge a small fee for parking. How tall is Yangpidong Waterfall? About 40 metres, and roughly 20 to 30 metres wide. How long is the hike to the falls? 30 to 50 minutes each way, mostly downhill on the way in and uphill on the way out. Plan for 2 to 3 hours round trip. How far is it from Guiyang? About 70 km. The drive takes roughly 1.5 to 2 hours, and the last part is on narrow country roads. When should I avoid going? During rain and for about three days afterwards, when the path is very slippery and landslides are possible. Also avoid going in late in the day, and try to start well before 2 pm. Is it suitable for children or beginners? Not for young children or people with no hiking experience. There are no railings, and some sections need your hands.